SOUTHERN THAILAND, Beaches and Forests

First week chilling out in Ao Nang Beach, Krabi, weather is very stormy but warm.  Whole place is so quiet compared with same time of year in 2019.  Hardly any traffic or tourists and many places shut and under renovation.

Very strange to see Cannabis shops, so odd when Thailand was once so strict on drugs.  They don’t appear to be any busier than the normal bars with alcohol when you walk past.

Lots of swimming in our empty resort pool, and some great Indian food, then back off on the bird and wildlife search.
Down to the top of Phuket and Sirinat National Park.  Again much rain in the 3 days we were here so not much around.

Had some pretty good food in the same restaurant as 3 years ago.  The beach was disgusting, full of rubbish (the tides bring a lot into this coastline).  2 Resorts cleaning up their patches but no-one else. Also lots of flags saying no swimming but no reason given. In 2019 the whole beach was cleaned every day, horrible to see it go downhill so much.  Apparently, they don’t want to pay people while not many visitors (which I understand, but chicken and egg as visitors don’t want to stay when beach is filthy). Nice Sunset.

We also went down to Patong for a couple of hours, just to see how COVID had affected that too. Same, dead as a doornail.  A few Brits and Eastern Europeans but hardly any traffic, very minimal tourists and many shut places.  Did not have a good feeling at all.  Even though I have never been a fan of Patong at least 3 years ago it had a lot of life.

Next to Takua Pa, birding along route (not successful as raining).  Funny little town with a historic steel bridge made out of old stuff and some old buildings.  We did find a great place to stay overlooking a lake but it is really just a through town.  Had to resort to KFC as couldn’t find any good restaurants, where we were staying said it had a restaurant but it was closed and turned into accommodation.

We were here to spend a day in Sri Phang Nga National Park.  Luckily the rain held off for a couple of hours and we walked to some waterfalls, lovely park and there were some longer hikes but you had to wade across a few rivers.  Best thing was the amazing food in the National Park restaurant.  2 dollars for lovely chicken and rice dish.

On to Khao Sok National Park (which abuts the one above).  Great place for scenery with a couple of long hard hikes (not open, too wet).  Very wet 5 days (Except the one on arrival), shame as it was a beautiful spot.  Lots of birds and you could raft or tube down the river, which we planned to do until the rain started and never stopped.  We managed to do one night tour in a lull of rain, it was spitting at the start and heavy just at the end.  The walk through the forest was interesting, mud, water and this dodgy crossing.


We were lucky, found a few snakes, frogs and other insects.  Guide said there would be a lot more if it had not been so wet.

Our treehouse had really steep, and narrow(depth) wooden steps, we were so careful going up and down as they were also very slippery once wet.  Did not stop an accident though, although not on the steps but at the top. Steve slipped over on the wet tiled balcony.  (scene of the incident below, cute bungalow though).

 Finding the right number to ring for an ambulance was interesting and then the language, but eventually after about 1 hour I managed to get one and we got taken about 50 mins to a local hospital.  Maybe a lesson to know emergency numbers in advance in a country, just never expected to need one.  Pretty quick service, very quiet public hospital.  Xray etc then they suggested we went to private hospital as they thought there might be more damage than they could see on xray.  Another Ambulance transfer (a kids one all decorated out with toys).  This time over an hour to Surat Thani.

Hospitals here are incredible, very modern full of staff and machinery and very few patients.  Great service.  MRI showed 3 broken ribs and punctured lung.  Steve admitted for remainder of night.  I had to get a taxi all the way back to the accommodation as we had to check out that day.  2 hours drive for about $48 not bad really.  Packed up, paid bill and picked up car to drive back to Surat Thani, not sure whether Steve would be able to leave today or not.  His room was amazing, huge with sofa, desk and chair, fridge.  Better than most hotels we have stayed in.  Food was abysmal and cold though.

Our booked accommodation for this night was 3 hours up the road.  Steve was not allowed out so I got a cheap room in town. Hot water not working, kettle and mugs but no spoons, coffee or anything. Luckily next day by lunch he could leave and we headed North.

Steve is in quite a lot of pain and can not lift anything, fly or exercise for 4 weeks and obviously driving was also out so I took over much to his disgust.  (He hates not driving himself).

Lucky this next place was for 3 nights and on the beach so he could just rest and recover a bit.  Our main purpose of staying here was for the Raptor Centre where thousands or raptors come in migration. Steep hill for Steve to climb, and he couldn’t do it as last bit as too rough on the ribs.

Driving around Southern Thailand is really easy, (except motor bikes going wrong way), the main highways are large and very little traffic.  One of the best countries I have ever driven in.

On our way to Kaeng Krachan we stopped the night in a small town near Palau Waterfall which we had missed last time.  While sitting on a bench outside I heard a bonk, looked up and a snake was hanging off the roof above me -scary.  Turned out to be harmless though and got a great look at it.

Paid our entry fee the next day, the waterfall has 16 levels.  A bit annoyed when could only walk 100 metres to level 2 as the rest was closed (and the real waterfalls do not start till level 5).  Expensive waste of time.

Kaeng Krachan National Park is a favourite of ours, great for wildlife and birds. Have seen a few more snakes this time which is great, as our 6 days here was a little lacking due to many days of constant rain, really unusual.  Have found out now that there has been more rain this year than for over 20 years.  Our accommodation here was flooded in areas, had to drive through water and seats and tables at the lake were partly underwater.

Had a nature trail which turned into rock climbing great for Steve (not).

Back to the beach and Sam Roi Yot for a week of swimming etc. Wow, what a change in 3 years.  The bar, massage place, car hire and all other middle beach places demolished.  New resorts going up everywhere, such a shame as loved the laid back under developed feel.  Still nothing compared with many other places though.  Great expat community to have a laugh and chat with.

Lastly for Southern Thailand a trip further towards Bangkok for water birds.  Chao Samran Beach.  Also underdeveloped with many many half finished or falling down buildings.  One abandoned building has been taken over by Spot Billed Pelicans and Painted Storks – quite a sight.  The area is mainly rice paddies so a lot of water for migratory and resident waterbirds.
If you are lover of Seafood, this has to be the centre.  All restaurants specialise in seafood and according to a UK/Hong Kong retired QC he comes here annually just to eat the “according to him” best seafood anywhere and so cheap too”.

Its been a great few weeks but hoping going North and getting later in the year we might have some drier weather.