CAMBODIA, VIETNAM & THAILAND

Highlights of 2 brief earlier visits to Vietnam in 2003, well worth the visit (don’t laugh at the old photos, they are certainly not the best). Then 6 weeks through Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in 2008.

Ho Chi Minh
War Remnants Museum – Scary stuff inside but no photos allowed

Cu Chi Tunnels – We went through the widened tunnel but piked at the narrow one – except our youngest who did do it. Layouts are incredible, very clever.

Building Architecture in the city – Old ornate buildings are everywhere, and such variety.

Na Trang
Beaches – Quiet, sandy and beautiful
Waterfalls – A trip out and hike to hidden places
Pagodas
Walks/Scenery

Hanoi
Perfume Pagoda River Trip & Caves – Relaxing, fantastic scenery.
Halong Bay – Amazing rock formations, great swim through into a hidden cove.

Cat Ba Island & Hospital Cave – The lighting failed and it was very scary in the dark, had to hang on dearly to kids in case they disappeared down a tunnel. Great walk to top of island.

Our next visit to Vietnam was also brief (would love to do properly one day) and just a stop over on the way to Cambodia in 2007/8.

Flying into Phu Quoc island on the border of Cambodia was a sight, clear blue sea and a lovely island. We were amazed how little developed it was. Found a fantastic thatched bungalow on beach (7 bungalows and bar/restaurant). Run by a UK guy and surrounded by – nothing but nature. It was fantastic. Although a shame that all the coral and fish are gone. Mike said that when he came 7 years prior the sea was alive but now all fished out. We watched some fishermen with large nets 1 km Long and wound in by hand) spend hours bringing in a washing basket full of fish that were not bigger than 2 inches – but variety……. I can imagine how amazing the waters would be if they were left to grow and breed.

Phu Quoc is like a time warp with lots of local colour, we saw an interesting method of fishing while out on a snorkelling trip. The young man was a long long way from shore on a rubber met.

Exploring the island by hired Jeep was fun, Steve had a real laugh when the guy tried to teach him how to use the old fashioned double clutch (Steve already knew and the guy had no idea). The island is beautiful and it was particularly interesting to see how close to Cambodia the Northern end is. In general apart from the main town there is little development.

Refreshed from this break we take a boat back to mainland and on to Ha Tien border town. This border has only been open to tourists a few months, and we found only 3 people in the whole town who spoke any English. We struggled to get accommodation until a Vietnamese lady visiting from Sydney helped out. Hotel was good but breakfast…… We pointed to an adjoining table who had rolls and salad but somehow ended up with what we later discovered was Dog and egg. They were honouring us – but definitely not to our taste, particularly as Chris is vegetarian. Funny to see both a cat and a dog sitting on the side in the kitchen – maybe not the best hygienically.

Trying to find a way to get across border we got accosted by a motorbike driver that wanted to take us so he could smuggle across cigarettes (and who knows what else), we did not chose that option. Eventually we managed to get a car to border where we picked up 3 drivers with nifty 50’s. 2 people and large backpack on each bike was a tight fit. Road from here to Kampot was all dirt and puddles. I was thrown off quite early in the piece but as the speed was low it was not an issue. The scenery along this route was just incredible, rural, mountains, sea etc. 50km on the back of a small bike on rough road is not comfortable, we were so glad to get there BUT, the drivers just dropped us in the middle of a wide tree lined street with no buildings visible – they would not go further. Walking the way we thought, it was not long before we found a small guest house on the sea. Then it turned out we were in Kep, not Kampot which was a further 10km.

A night in Kep and a look around this seaside town for locals and then a tuk tuk ride to Kampot. Here we found this lovely little guest house with a small garden. Friendly owners and guests and guitar playing entertainment.

A trip on the back of a truck up to Bokor National Park was the highlight (and we really needed the grap rail in the middle) – even though my head got cut from a trailing Tiger Claw plant. The road was dirt and winding with amazing views over the coast. We were lucky to go up on the truck as they were in the process of turning this road into tarmac for buses. Such a shame as the adventure was half the fun and it will put so many small people out of work.

Arriving up the mountain to ruined buildings in the mist was very eerie, the whole place had a mysterious feeling.

The National Park included an old French Colonial building that was in ruins due to the war, bullet holes everywhere but still a very impressive building with a very interesting history. This included time as a casino and lots of suicides from the roof top after losing money. The buildings are riddled with bullet holes and the sandbags are still in position. The building and outbuildings took a massive battering from the war.

Our local guides were incredible and could find insects and birds in the forest like no-one else I have ever met. This was due to them being parentless and living in the forest during the war. They learnt to throw bird calls to warn each other of the Khmer Rouge soldiers.

Kampot is on a river that has bioluminescent plankton, great site and is also home to many pepper plantations. Nothing like their fresh green peppercorns. A trip to Phnom K’Chnor Caves was also interesting, again very rural and attractive scenery. The pigs that belong to households are the size of horses and the land is very fertile.

From Kampot we headed to Phnom Penh by bus, and the theft of personal items from Chris – no idea how it happened as she had her bag on her lap the whole time – some clever pick pockets out there. On arrival Chris got a driver to take her to police station to report – she got an interesting response from police on asking for a receipt for the money she paid to report it……. Phnom Penh like any city is busy and noisy but the river area is nice, although sad to see the kids begging and the obvious signs of drug use around. We had a nice little place overlooking the river.

The Royal Palace is interesting for its architecture and objects. It is sad though to see the street kids everywhere. We found one young lad and took him to a stall to eat – he was so happy and ate so fast he must have been starving.

Our highlight though was a trip to Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. Although not to western standards they are trying, they have sun bears, elephants, tigers (behind a single chain link fence)etc. Many with injuries from stepping on old bombs and mines. So very sad, but with help and funding from international places hopefully more can be done to increase the aid they can give the animals.

Another trip from Phnom Penh was Tol Sleng and the Killing Fields – horrific but worth a visit. We forget sometimes how hard other people have had things. Given the history of Pol Pot Regime it is amazing that the Cambodians are such friendly happy people – or is it because and they are so happy for peace?

Christmas day and we are on a bus to Siam Reap, supposedly 6 hours but usually 8. Lunch stop was at a roadside stall that sold fried spiders, cockroaches and other insects. Low and behold our Christmas lunch was bananas.

Found a great little hotel in Siam Reap with some interesting guests and a little pool – which was well used due to the heat and humidity. Siam Reap was very touristy as expected but that has the advantage of lots of choice of eating houses. Angkor Wat was interesting but so well preserved, full of tourists and touts. We headed out for some of the more remote temples. Our favourite being Ta Prohm( Tomb raiders was filmed here).

The interesting thing around most of the outlaying temples is the signage. There are signs at each one with a drawing of area that has been cleared of bombs and mines. Great you might say, but the trouble is there are no dimensions so you get an orthodox shape on a sign and no way of knowing where it is or how large it is. Amazing to see how many people ignore the “stay on path” signs and wander all over. MAD. No wonder there are so many casualties still. With the more remote temples, it is well worth paying a local a small amount to gain insight to the history.

Next on to Sihanoukville, a busy seaside town. Pleasant beach and crowded with locals, also a little seedy.

A day trip to Ream National Park to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins was really good, lovely beaches and great boat ride. The guide said they do not often see the dolphins but we spotted a pod and the other tourists were so happy that we did (the guide had not seen them). Only thing to watch out for here is the sand flies on the beach – lots of them.

Off to Koh Chang just over the border in Thailand. We have flown out our 3 grown children (31, 24 and 23) to meet us for my 50^th birthday and a family week. We started of at Klong Phrao Beach in Magic Resort, a few bungalows on the beach front. Lovely place, good beach and restaurants around.

From here we hired a car and drove round the island. The roads were washed away in places and generally in poor condition.

Luckily not much traffic as much of the island is still pristine and not developed. Some glorious beaches and amazing scenery.

Next to meet the kids of the ferry – we were all really happy to be having this time together. We moved further south to a younger area, Lonely Beach. Many backpacker places here so it suited the kids well. The swimming was good and we hired canoes to explore an island off shore.

A trip from here were to Klong Kloi Bay with a lovely relaxed beach on the southern tip of the island was very enjoyable. From Bang Bao Pier close by here you can take trips out to outlaying islands.

Other things from here were Ban Kwan Chang Elephant Trekking Trip, amazing scenery. How times change, I would no longer ride an elephant due to the way they are treated, but we were not aware of this back then. Steve took up the offer to bathe with the Elephant which decided it was a good place to relieve itself much to the kids enjoyment.

The 2 highlights though were a sailing trip which was a combined fishing and cooking trip (we still cook the red curry we learnt to this day) and a day at the tree top adventure park.

I had to challenge myself here as not a great lover of heights. Not helped by my mischievous son bouncing the ropes and ladders around. It was good fun though, I loved the zip lines.
All too soon the 7 days were over, my son and youngest daughter returning to Oz and work while my other daughter was going off on an adventure through Cambodia.

We had a few more days so took a boat out to stay on Koh Kood Island. Great snorkelling and hardly any development. The jungle was still natural and great for a short walk, but most was not accessible.

A great way to spend our last few days before returning through Hong Kong where we stopped for 2 days. Steve bought lots of tools (so much cheaper than Oz) – and another suitcase to put them in.