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Sunset Lake Manyana

Tanzania, Serengeti and other places

ARRIVING IN TANZANIA

Once over the border into Tanzania we are going down a single width dirt track road that goes from the border to the park and low and behold they are bulldozers making a new fast wide bitumen roads – this route will not stay quiet.  As we had been late to arrive at the border we missed our afternoon game drive – which was OK by us as we were exhausted.  We arrived at Ikoma Lodge which is on the outskirts of the park – plenty of elephant around and Steve and I walked along a bush path looking at the birds.

On leaving here we were surprised how different the scenery was in the Serengeti.  More trees and generally different vegetation.  The animals though were the same but in much smaller numbers, there were still Wildebeest and Zebra as the old and sick ones do not migrate.

Again we saw 2 Cheetahs, one with a cub – how lucky have we been.  And another leopard – and this time it did not just lie on the branch it got up and stood (it also had a wildebeest hanging in the tree).

Some different birds this side and others we had not seen.

Always something new which is amazing.

In general Tanzania is much more progressed with Tourism – it makes it run more smoothly but loses its magic and turns everyone into more money oriented than service.  And the shops – just too much hassle.  Not that I am keen on the stuff they sell anyway.

When we left the Serengeti through the gate most people enter by, it was madness – lots and lots of coaches etc going in.  So glad we did it early and the wrong way round as we did not see too many vehicles.
We next went to Olduvai gorge which is the place is one of the most important paleoanthropological sites in the world and where they found the earliest form of man.  Yet again they are in the middle of a large building project to make it more tourist friendly but we enjoyed it as it was.

Leaving here we went on to our lodge on Ngorongoro Crater – Rhino Lodge. 

This is a huge lodge a bit like a motel but with fantastic views and bird life.  Also buffalo and some form of Antelope (a Waterbuck as it turns out) came right up outside the rooms.

Early morning into the crater to avoid the crowds – definitely worth it.  Following is a picture of our 2 travel companions and Paul our guide above the Crater.

The scenery was spectacular and the crater interesting, we certainly saw a lot of animals including another Black Rhino and more lions than we could count. Unfortunately all the animals are pretty tame as they are so used to people, felt more like a zoo.  We did see a Grey eared fox and a Caracal – both of which are hard to see our guide had not seen this cat in the crater before and he had been doing tours for 10 years, boy are we lucky.  (Pictures no use though, too far away). Not that much in the way of bird life in the crater.  By the time we left about 3 it was getting really crowded.

Off again, this time to Lake Manyara. Tonight we are staying in a motel / camp in town so that will be different.  The drive around the Rim of the crater had a couple of great vantage points and it was great to see the local masai villages with their round mud huts and colourful clothing.

The accommodation is pleasant, a nice garden setting with a few birds around.  The afternoon drive was good, very different scenery and a massive lake with lots and lots of water birds.  We saw some huge Silvery Cheeked Hornbills but unfortunately did not see the Ground Hornbills.  We watched the sun come down before heading back for dinner.
Steve and I then also did a night drive and saw Porcupine, night mongoose, night jars, hippos on land and genets.

 

BIRD & WILDLIFE LISTS:

Birds:

African Grey Hornbill
African Hawk Eagle
African Hoopoe
African Pipit
African Spoonbill
Augur Buzzard
Baglafecht Weaver
Barn Swallow
Black Coucal
Black Faced Sandgrouse
Black Heron
Black Headed Weaver
Black Winged Stilt
Blacksmith Plover
Blue Breasted Bee-eater
Blue Naped Mousebird
Cape Robin
Capped Wheater
Chestnut Backed Sparrow Lark
Chestnut Sparrow
Cinnamon Chested Bee-eater
Common Bulbul
Coucal
Crested Guineafowl
Crowned Plover
Denham’s Bustard
Diederik Cuckoo
Fan Tailed Widowbird
Fischers Sparrowlark
Fork Tailed Drongo
Gabon Nightjar
Grassland Pipit
Green Winged Pytilia
Grey Crowned Crane
Grey Cuckoo Shrike
Grey Headed Gull
Grey Headed Kingfisher
Grey Headed Sparrow
Grey Rumped Swallow
Grosbeak Weaver
Hildebrandt’s Starling
Hours Swift
Knob Billed Duck
Kori Bustard
Lanner Falcon
Little Yellow Flycatcher
Madagascar Squacco Heron
Magpie Shrike
Magpie Starling
Marsh Sandpiper
Malachite Sunbird
Mascerene Martin
Mountain Buzzard
Northern Grey Headed Sparrow
Northern White Crowned Shrike
Ortolan Bunting
Pink Backed Pelican
Plain Martin
Red Billed Teal
Red Capped Lark
Red Collared Widowbird
Rosy Breasted Longclaw
Rufous Chested Swallow
Ruff
Rufous Bellied Heron
Rufous Naped Lark
Rufous Tailed Weaver
Sacred Ibis
Saddle Billed Stork
Sand Martin
Sanderling
Scarce Swift
Shelleys Francolin
Short Toed Snake Eagle
Silverbird
Silvery Cheeked Hornbill
Speckle Fronted Weaver
Spotted Redshank
Spur Winged Goose
Stripe Breasted Seed-eater
Striped Pipit
Superb Starling
Taveta Golden Weaver
Three Banded Plover
Von Der Decken’s Hornbill
White Bellied Canary
White Bellied Go Away Bird
White Browed Coucal
White Browed Buffalo Weaver
White Crowned Starling
Yellow Bellied Greenbul
Yellow Billed Stork
Yellow Spotted Petronia

Wildlife:
Agama Lizard
Black Backed Jackal
Black Rhino
Blue Monkey
Bushbuck
Cape Buffalo
Caracal
Cheetah
Dik Dik
Elephant
Giraffe
Golden Jackal
Hartebeest
Hippopotamus
Impala
Kenyan Rock Agama Lizard
Large Spotted Genet
Leopard
Lion
Porcupine
Vervet Monkey
Waterbuck
White Tailed Mongoose
Wildebeest
Zebra

 

THINGS TO DO


Lake Manyara –  Great for waterbirds, wildlife.  Worth going for the night safari, not many places you can do this without breaking the bank. 

Serengeti – Goes without saying.  Lots of everything, although in our eyes not as good as over the border in Masai Mara.

Ngorongoro Crater – A bit like a zoo.  The animals are wild, but trapped and there are so many safari vehicles and people.  Not our favourite part of the trip.  You can get close though as the wildlife (!) is so used to people.

Olduvai Gorge – Fascinating, paleoanthropological site and museum.  Worth a visit.

 

 

WHERE TO STAY

 

Serengeti
Very different scenery to Masai Mara as there is a dividing
range of mountains on the border.
  Same
wildlife animal wise but some different bird species.
  We actually had our best sighting of Cheetah
and Leopard here – but that of course is just luck.

Ikoma Bush Camp.  Lovely place, no other guests while we were there.  Spacious huts.  Reasonable food. Good setting.

 

Ngorongoro Crater
Apart from Zanzibar this was my least favourite place.
  If you are someone with limited time or just
likes to tick things of a list then this is the place to go.
  Very easy to see all the big animals and some
of the small ones but it felt more like a zoo.
 Because they are captive in the crater (except
for small cats etc) and it is high on the tourist routes the animals are very
tame.
  You do not get to see the natural
behaviour.
  In saying that though the
scenery is fantastic with an amazing variety in a small area.
  We also got to see Hippo walking on land in
the day which was great.

Ngorongoro Rhino Lodge.  Small basic rooms.  Amazing setting.  Lots of birds and wildlife.  Great views from room verandah and restaurant.

Lake Manyana
A smaller park but very beautiful.  Harder to see the larger animals although we did see some, but the lake is great for birds and the scenery brilliant.  We saw quite a few of the smaller animals here and some more unusual ones along with a huge variety of water birds.  Steve and I did a night drive too which was brilliant, we saw porcupine, night mongoose, hippo on land,  nightjar and many other things.

Twiga Lodge.  Basic motel style, nice garden.  Had an amazing lunch (we arrived out of normal hours so they cooked us a curry).  Not a sign of things to come as the rest was fixed and bad western.  Pity they do not stick to their own style, so much better and tastier.

 

 

WHERE TO EAT

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COSTS

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