Madagascar Mid North

Internal flights are inclined to change a lot and our next one was no exception. On-line it said it had changed from 11am to 1.55pm but the guide rang and was told 8am. Early up to be at airport at 6am, queued up only to be told no it was 1.55. Back to hotel, what fun – at least now we get breakfast.

This is also the 2nd flight that has then left around 30 mins early, strange airline, of course arriving early – no driver yet.

This time being back in Tana at least the supermarkets have opened again which is great to stock up on snacks.

Next stop Andasibe/Perinet/Mantadia National Parks – or so our itinerary says. Accommodation has changed – not complaining it is a much better place, very fancy. 2 days in 1st 2 areas are good, with a snake, lemurs and birds but on asking about going to Mantadia to find the more elusive birds we are told our vehicle is not 4×4 and can’t go, even though it is in itinerary to go – think something went astray with planning there.

In the end that was lucky as Steve got sick – food, amazing as no issues for over 3 weeks so far, and he had to miss the day we would have gone to the park.

On a night walk in this area there are so many Mouse Lemur’s, quite incredible the numbers, but not a single Chameleon for the first time on a night walk.

These parks are the most visited by tourists as they are not too far from Tana (4 hours plus) but the guides and drivers hate this route due to trucks. We did not really understand until on our way back. Leaving early we were zooming along, little traffic thinking this will be a quick trip. Ha Ha, silly thought. We came upon a line of trucks, cars etc blocking the road, on driver investigating it appears a truck further up had an accident and is blocking the road. After a fair wait we find out more – the queue has been growing since the day before, some people have already been there for about 18 hours – OUCH

Our guide decides we will have to walk, get a car the other side and get someone to bring the bags through as these road accidents sometimes take up to 4 days to clear. Now I know why drivers do not like this road.

Now bearing in mind Steve had been sick he was not feeling full of energy so walking in the heat was not ideal but no choice. We walk and walk and walk – how long is this jam? Noticing gaps we think why do the trucks not shunt around so they get on one side of the road, then at least cars could pass… After nearly 3km we could see the broken truck across the road – and also at this point we were asking if we could hire someone on motorbike to take us through the rest.

The offending truck in pic above.

Luckily at that point our car managed to get to us – the trucks had shunted around and got to one side. Very grateful, but still took a long time to get the second 3 to 4km as trucks still being maneuvered to enable cars to pass.

Another odd thing is these jams are not announced anywhere so the whole time the queue is growing as more and more vehicles in both directions join, crazy.

Lesson – never have a flight the same day if you are travelling this road, we did not thankfully.

A Lake in Tana has some amazing birds like this endangered Malagasy Pond Heron.

Our flight to Mahajanga was another that left 30 mins early, much better than hanging longer in airport. Off on a boat to the river delta for shore birds, ducks etc.

Lovely trip out and some great birds but the main one we wanted to find was elusive till the end, we were happily taking pictures when captain said we had to leave as tide getting low, – too late we are stuck. The captain and mate struggled very hard to keep trying to get the boat off the bank – they did eventually but they looked shattered after, very hard work. Certainly did not fancy spending hours out here but I guess our guide and us could have got out and helped if it got that desperate.

We are staying in a National Park Bungalow, not bad but of course no hot water and little electricity (expected). What we did not expect was the 40 Degree heat and then the power that should be on from 7pm till 4 am went off at 10pm each night – so so hot, very hard to sleep. Still it does make you very aware of how the locals live all the time.

It was a lovely park but very hard to do much in the heat after about 9 am. One afternoon was a boat on the river – perfect in this heat.

On the way from airport noticed a trench by the side of the road, thought ah they must be putting in water to local villages. Nope, fibre optics all dug by hand, incredible.

Some houses, even without electricity and water have satellite dishes, can’t miss modern technology.

As we were very early back in town for our flight the guide took us to a lake near the airport where there are usually waterbirds – unfortunately not only no waterbirds but no water…..

Air Madagascar is very strict on baggage weight and carry on is only 5kg. BUT a camera round your neck does not count – but if in bag it does. Most people load up pockets and bumbags with batteries, torches, anything that weighs anything. Go through check in, then put it all back in bag – madness. BUT in Tana they are clever and so first time through domestic terminal most people get caught and have to pay extra as they weigh your bags on check in attach tags – but then after everyone puts things back in you go through security where they weigh them again. Clever fund raising.

For early flights we try to get packed breakfasts and even though we do not eat much of it, none is wasted as the porters jump on it before you can put in the bin. Hard life.

Back to the coast and a remote part of Madagascar with the first stop at Aye Aye forest camp, reached by boat only. There was once a road, in fact it is National Route 5, but no cars have been able to pass since the late 1960’s.

Lovely spot but as usually hilly to walk, luckily it was all worthwhile when on the second night we spotted an Aye Aye. Not a good picture though as it kept moving and was high up but I did manage to catch it’s shadow.

There was another couple here at the same time, and what happens is each group has their own guide, own chef and own porters, helps to share the money around the locals. Of course no wifi, limited hot water and only 3 hours a day of power but right on a beautiful beach.

Second stop a fancier lodge – no wifi, very limited electricity and small food portions with no choice. For instance one meal was 3 chicken nuggets and a few runner beans. Another time plain spaghetti – YUK.

Fish is a staple but there is so little fish left in the sea, partly as the rules are not followed. Nets are supposed to have 2cm holes but in the main they use mosquito nets so nothing escapes. Watching a massive neat being pulled in for hours just rewards them with a lot of very small fish. Not sure what they will do in the future when the fish run out.

The forest here is very diverse, and has been protected for many years – pity they have not done the same elsewhere.

The locals call some birds Bad birds, for instance Parrots as they eat the coffee beans and lovebirds and guineafowl eat crops.

Football is a popular game and in this remote area instead of a trophy if the village team win they win a Zebu. If a really important match they win 5 Zebu.

After 5 days in this area we were so hungry we gave in and drank warm, slightly off white wine just to feel less hungry…..

A lot of walking done in this park, up and down steep rough tracks, trying to find two specific birds. On the last day we at least found one of them.

On a night walk in this area we went through 2 villages and even though the huts are small and made of straw, there are fires inside, not sure I would trust that, would only take some wind….

Last stop on this section is camping on Nosy Mangabe – and possible snorkelling although guide said it was not worthwhile in the area we could reach. The island was great for frogs and leaf-tailed geckos – and possibly aye aye except it was too bright for them as nearly a full moon.

In the highland of the island is an old second burial cave. One of the customs here which does still happen in some areas is that when a person dies they are buried in temporary grave for 3 years. Then they are dug up and the villagers clean all the bones, have a party and then re-bury them in a permanent cave,