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Khao Sam Rot National Park

Hua Hin and National Parks

 

MAD DOGS, ENGLISHMEN & GEESE

Slow, slow and slower – that is the cheapest way to travel we are  discovering, BUT can we do it.  I am not the worlds most patient person and love to keep finding new places and things.  One night while sitting out by the pool we saw a firely buzzing around.  It then settled very near a gekko which promptly chomped it.  The firefly lit up and the gekko dropped it instantly. Anyway to this end we are staying for one week with golf friends in Hua Hin – with a great day out to Ratcahapuri Golf Course.  Round of golf (18), cart, caddie and beer 4400B for both of us.

One night while sitting out by the pool with our friends we saw a firefly buzzing around.  It then settled very near a gekko which promptly chomped it.  The firefly lit up and the gekko dropped it instantly. The area we thought would suit us best for the rest is Sam Roi Yot Beach. Quieter and more laid back, and close to one National Park, with 2 others not too far away.  Much more our style – and better still a cheap local golf course, a little rough but good enough especially for 100B each per round.

Hua Hin and all the surrounding areas have large xpat communities, many of which are English.  Regardless of nationality there are some very interesting characters, from people with world records, engineers, artists, rich and poor alike.
Getting to Hua Hin was a bus from Phuket to Surat Thani – at one point I looked down and there was a Gerbil?  or some kind of small mammal under my feet looking at me.  It scarpered and then a few minutes later a young lady started getting agitated – turned out it was an escaped pet.  Then a train from Surat Thani to Hua Hin, very slow as they are doing major works on the whole line and building flyovers for the roads. Great scenery though so well worth it and good pricing.

There is some great accommodation for those xpats who come out and live on retirement visas.  For 4,000,000 upwards you can buy a large house with a swimming pool and be very comfortable. We were staying south of Hua hin and there are so many houses being built you wonder who is going to live in them as from what we can tell many xpats are leaving due to changed retirement rules.  Steve & I saw this house we would love to do up – need to be very wealthy though.

Had a great walk up more mountainous paths to a fantastic view point in Sam Roi Yot National Park. Hot and humid again, we met a few unprepared people on their way up (no water). Next plan a cave but a Religious day and bursting at the seems so decided to come back another day.  On our return another day we were early so had to wait for the park to open. Up and up another steep climb again. great not many people (one in fact).  Stopped for a quick coke then head towards the cave almost believing it was going to be a level path. First thing Carol noticed was movement in some trees, only monkeys! No Dusky Langurs which were fantastic to see especially the young ones with their white eye rings (pity no pink babies). Carry on with walk, more steps and more steps ever upward. Close to the top a local said only 100mts to go then down. Anyway down we go into an amazing Temple at bottom. When you first get there it looks like an empty cave with a little green oasis inside – very pretty. Meandering through that to another and the temple appears through a frame of stalactites and stalagmites. Ranger had told us be there at 10 oclock. 10 oclock arrives and the sun shines through the open cave straight on to Temple Brilliant.  On the way down the path up was packed, pity they all missed the best part.

Travelling around we hired a car (expensive) for a week which was great except for all the Soi Dogs and Geese in Sam Roi Yot that wandered out into the road all day and evening. We did get very attached to the geese though.  It was funny of an evening to watch their antics with the bikes and cars.  Unfortunately the night before we left one got hit and killed (they had been there for years). Also Scooters with no lights, quite stressful but worthwhile.  Also we hired a Scooter for running around, not good for long journeys as painful on ones nether regions.

Visiting 3 National Parks over our visit we noticed a common theme of lack of TLC. A dodgy walk along a board walk in Sam Roi Yot National Park, it definitely needed TLC by the bucket pretty good for birding, We had to do it from both ends as middle was a bit sus. 


Closed roads in Kaeng Krachan and closed walks and campsites in most.  Many things in need of repair.  

On our way to Kui Buri, we were nearly there when a tropical rainstorm hit, do we keep going or not? Decide to continue for a recce. Rain Stops hopes are up. Arrive at park expecting to pay 850 baht for vehicle, but lucky us a couple of Dutchmen and Ladies knew we were coming (not sure how) and waited.  This way it was so much cheaper. Set off in the back of a ute, rangers spoke to other tours heading back in no Elephants no Guars, Bummer. Mooched around park for a bit and on the final stop 2 Elepahnts and a herd of Guars (Locals call them cows, but as big as the Elephants), On the way back another small herd of Guars very close which was excellent.  Kaeng Krachang was our favourite park though, with a lot more wildlife and birds. Excellent accommodation and staff. 2 birding trips and 2 sessions in a hide. The guide got really really excited when he spotted a Red Bearded Bee-eater.  Apparently not seen much. We also saw Lar Gibbons among other things, fantastic as we had seen them in rehab place in Phuket but never expected to see them in the wild.

Getting lost as we do we came across a cave called Lub Lai Cave, we thought it would just be a cave with a Buddah, but really surprised us by being huge caverns that went all over.  Many stalectites and mites, with very attractive shapes and colours. 
In between all these trips we chilled out in Sam Roi Yot – or did we?  In order to keep busy we played golf and volunteered to help a local Brit expat do some work around his bar.  This included building a bonfire for guy fawks night, creating bike stands and other odd jobs.  Hard work, but fun.

A group of young Europeans spent time cleaning rubbish from the beach, just because they thought it a good thing to do.

We followed suit and did the same too on a regular basis – till the tides and storms brought in the Jelly fish.  Not game after that as they are not the friendly type.

One of the best things about staying longer in a place – apart from less travel costs, is that you get to know the best eating spots at the best prices.  The local expats are a mine of information and great fun to talk to.  I recommend the Searchlight Bar, best bar along the beach.

 

 

BIRD & WILDLIFE LISTS:

Hua Hin – From Accommodation

Birds:
Chestnut Headed Bee-eater
Crow Headed Drongo
Indian Cormorant
Little Grebe
Olive Backed Sunbird

Wildlife:
Common Treeshrew

Sam Roi Yot National Park – Also seen around Sam Roi Yod Beach

Birds:
Asian Openbill
Bar Tailed Godwit
Black Capped Kingfisher
Black Crowned Night
Heron
Black Thighed Falconet
Bronzed Winged Jacana
Brown Chested Flycatcher
Bull Headed Shrike
Canadian Goose
Chestnut Munia
Chinese Pond Heron
Common Hoopoe
Common Iora
Common Kingfisher
Common Moorhen
Common Redshank
Common Tailorbird
Coppersmith Barbet
Crested Myna
Greater Coucal
Green Bee-eater
Green Billed Malkoha
Green Peafowl
Green Winged Bulbul
Grey Breasted Prinia
Grey Headed Swamphen
Grey Plover
Hair Crested Drongo
House Sparrow
Indochinese Bush Lark
Indochinese Roller
Javan Myna
Lesser Sand Plover
Lesser Whistling Duck
Little Egret
Little Ringed Plover
Mangrove Whistler
Nordmann’s Greenshank
Olive Backed Sunbird
Paddyfield Pipit
Pied Fantail
Plain Backed Sparrow
Plain Prinia
Purple Heron
Red Necked Stint
Red Knot
Red Turtle Dove
Red Wattled Lapwing
Racket Tailed Treepie
Richard’s Pipit
Ruff
Scaly Breasted Munia
Sharp Tailed Sandpiper
Spot Breasted Woodpecker
Spotted Redshank
Streak Eared Bulbul
Western Yellow Wagtail
White Breasted Waterhen
White Breasted Woodswallow
White Rumped Shama
White Throated Kingfisher

Wildlife:
Birdmore’s Squirrel
Dusky Langur
Freshwater Turtle
Grey Bellied Squirrel
Lizards
Skinks
Water Monitor

Kaeng Krachen National Park – Walks in National Park and from accommodation just outside

Birds:
Asian Openbill
Asian Pied Starling
Ashy Drongo
Ashy Woodswallow
Banded Broadbill
Besra
Black & Red Broadbill
Black Crested Bulbul
Black Naped Monarch
Blue Throated Blue Flycatcher
Brown Chested Jungle Flycatcher
Collared Falconet
Common Flameback
Coppersmith Barbet
Chinese Pond Heron
Crested Myna
Crested Serpent Eagle
Ferruginous Flycatcher
Golden Fronted Leafbird
Great Hornbill
Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush
Greater Racket Tailed Drongo
Emerald Dove
Greater Yellownape
Green Billed Malkoha
Green Eared Barbet
Grey Headed Woodpecker
Indochinese Roller
Large Scimitar Babbler
Little Cormorant
Olive Backed Sunbird
Orange Breasted Trogon
Oriental Pied Hornbill
Pied Fantail
Pied Myna
Puff Throated Babbler
Red Bearded Bee-eater
Red Junglefowl
Red Wattled Lapwing
Slaty Backed Flycatcher
Sooty Headed Bulbul
Spot Bellied Eagle Owl
Verditer Flycatcher
Vernal Hanging Parrot
White Rumped Shama
White Throated Fantail
Yellow Browed Warbler

Wildlife:
Grey Bellied Squirrel
Dusky Leaf Monkey
Finlayson’s Squirrel
Himalayan Striped Squirrel
Lar Gibbon
Large Black Squirrel
Stump Tailed Macaque

Kui Buri – 2 hour tour

Wildlife:

Asian Elephant
Guar
Skink
Water Monitor

 

THINGS TO DO

Parks
Kui Buri –  Not much bird life, mainly Elephant and Guar.  There are other animals but we did not see them.  You need to do a 2 hour tour in a safari vehicle at 850 Baht per vehicle (can be up to 8 people).  Also the entry fee per person of 200 Baht 
Kaeng Krachan – 300 Baht per person, plus 30 Baht per vehicle.  You can camp here – and hire gear if you do not have it.  We did not do this time but will on another visit.  Great birdlife and wildlife.
Sam Roi Yot – Great for birds, a hike to a lookout, a boardwalk and some caves.  200 Baht per person if you do it all in one day.  One area is quite a distance from the main area, in fact it is all fairly spread out so you need transport.  Go early if you want to go the the main cave.  Walk over the hill (or catch a boat), then climb up.  If you wait till 10am once arrived you will see the temple lit up by the sun as it comes through a hole in the roof.  Boardwalk area is great for birds and earlier in year for the Lotus fields.

Viewpoints
Khao Daeng
Thao Ko Sa Forest Park
Khao Hin Lek Fai Hill

 

WHERE TO STAY

Hua Hin – We stayed with golfing friends for 1 week, not familiar with other accommodation.  

Sam Roi Yot Beach – Beach Village Resort.  Lovely resort, we booked 32 nights through Air BNB – much cheaper than direct at 840 Baht per night.   This was for a one bedroom villa.  Set up is 7 villas to a pool.  Most are owned by expats and used for holidays so very quiet.  Great location, although not on the beach it is central to all the main bars and eating places.  Would stay again.

Kaeng Krachan National Park – Kum Nangpaya Lodge.  Fantastic place, amazing host in Nok who speaks English and her husband is a great bird guide (although apart from bird names, without English).  The grounds are also full of birds.  Food is great too and lovely chalets.  Will stay again.

 

 

WHERE TO EAT

 Kaeng Krachen:-
 Kum Nangpaya Resort – Can not beat the food her for quality and value.
Vintage Boathouse – this is near the lake part of the park rather than the birding entrance.  Good value for a restaurant overlooking the lake.  Nice setting and good food.

Hua Hin:- 
We ate in a number of small restaurants in more local areas – most without a visible name.  There are plenty of restaurants in the tourist areas, although a bit pricey.  Also plenty of markets and stalls.

Sam Roi Yot Beach:-
Angels – Good food but pricey.  We ate here a couple of times till we found better value. Average 180 Baht.
Thai Thai – Great value, cheap local food, lovely setting.  Loved their Larb Gai, Clear Noodle Soup and Stir frys.  Average 100 Baht.
Selesa – Good for a western change, pricey though.  Average 200 Baht.
Fishermans Hut – Not sure what the name is really, but BEST place for lunch.  Right up the north end of the beach, a little silver hut.  Loved all their stir fry’s.  Average dish 40 Baht.  Absolutely the best value for great food.

 

 

 

COSTS

NATIONAL PARKS:-
        200B each – Except Kaeng Krachan which is 300B each

CAR HIRE:-
         2 weeks from National 400B per day in Hua Hin
         1000B per day in Sam Roi Yot Beach, which for a month can go down to 500 per day
         Scooter 200B per day upwards

FUEL:-
         29B per litre

BUS:-
         Phuket to Surat Thani 200B each
         Hua Hin to Bangkok Airport 369B each

TRAIN:-
         Surat Thani to Hua Hin 490B each

ALCOHOL:-
          95B upwards for a large beer in a restaurant
          60B for a large beer from a supermarket
          Bottle of local whiskey or vodka from supermarket 195B