Dominican Republic

A great start, late arriving plane in Kingston, Jamaica – then an other long wait (why we wonder as no announcement). Eventually 2 guys were returned via the way they exited the plane – they were not passed through immigration and were being herded back to the flight to return to their starting point. On to the plane but not to go, just to sit for around another hour – not sure why until an official turns up with the passports of the guys returning.

Lesson: Make sure you have all you documentation correct, bad enough if you get turned back but I would hate to be responsible for holding up an entire plane load of people.

Santo Domingo Old town is small streets and very busy – well when we arrived on a Saturday. Sunday when we had planned to do all the sorting out – everything was shut except bars. Should have checked but have not been to many places (only one) where this still happens.

This is Steve’s first time at driving on the wrong side of the road (or the right side, depending on how you describe it…), at least it is a Sunday so much quieter. BUT there are no road rules, makes for an interesting time.

Headed out to the mountains – amazing scenery but as usual no-where to stop where you can get a great shot. Most of my scenery shots always seem to be out of moving vehicles – or in not such great light or angle where we manage to stop.

If you had years and where young, best to walk everywhere (or have a driver know where stuff is, drop you and follow. Need to be very rich for the second option.

Villa Barancolli Eco lodge – really just old basic cabins has great grounds with lots of birds, and a friend in the toilet. (Below).

The 3 types of hummingbirds on the island all like the trees she has in her garden, and plenty of other birds – great start.

Shower system is interesting – have to remember to turn on a succession of valves in the right order and turn them off again in reverse. Amazing though it has hot water – bonus.

On the first night Kate (the owner) offered us a taste of the local hooch, a blend of rum, red wine, honey, tree bark and herbs.  Home made.  Steve tried it but I was a chicken,  he said it was a bit like Cuban spiced rum.

A guide with a 4×4 took us well into the mountains, leaving at 5am it was a 2 hour drive to the main birding area. Rough road, we were even provided with neck pillows to stop too much strain on our necks bouncing around.

3 hours walking up and down the road was great for us with many endemic birds (although very cold up this high).

For readers the most interesting thing was on the way back down to where the car had parked (10 meters from it), a tree had fallen across the road since we walked up, thankfully we had not driven further.

This track goes for miles down the edge of the Haitian Border, going on how long it took to get where we did it would be a long long trip to do the whole road (if even possible). At one point we were only about 300 metres from the border. Armed guards and rangers all over the place even on beaches (sitting under tree, gun on lap asleep).

Food here not great, supposed to be full board but only getting 2 meals a day – and not much at that. Another couple who arrived on second night complained a lot, but I think the owner and staff are just trying to survive post Covid after a long period of no income (and still quiet now).

Massive storm one night, incredibly long and loud, plus we discovered our roof leaked, right next to where my computer was. Much longer before discovery and it would have been cactus.

Rained and rained all morning, finally stopping around 3.30pm so at 4pm we decided to take 2 other people who were staying and new to birding to look for Burrowing Owls, on the only way out through the village there were power cables down all over the road, we had almost driven over them (the ones on the ground) before coming face to face (through the windscreen) with them hanging down – still live.

Backing up we try and decide what to do, hoping they will get fixed before we leave tomorrow (or we wont be leaving). Luckily we stopped on the way back to look at something and some locals came up and offered to let us through by holding the cables up with sticks – they were wearing Welly Boots (But maybe the cables were not live as we thought, although they were careful not to touch them. Found the Owls and the endangered Rhinoceros Iguana.

The Owl area is next to Lake Enriquillo which was a sea chanel blocked by an earthquake trapping in Salt Water Crocodiles (no swimming here).

Heading back at 6.30 power lines being fixed by hoards of workers. Pretty speedy I think.

Of to the Haitian / Southern border of Dominican Republic for some snorkelling and Caves with Rock Art. Could find nothing at all about how to visit the caves, just that they are in the park, so hoping when we get there we can sort it out.

Getting here was interesting, once again we are visiting somewhere just before it is completely ruined. Google no longer knows the roads as they have all been closed and massive new roads being built in this pristine environment – shame.

Along with an international airport, a cruise terminal and 15 new hotels with 25,000 beds (all in a tiny part of land on the edge of the National Park.

No road signs about diversions did not help, ended up going down some dead end tracks, and down the edge of the half made road where it was obviously (once we had gone down it a km) only for trucks working on the roads. Not that anyone seems to care what you do or tell you to do it differently….

Stopping for a break found as a cute spider outside and a wasp in the car.

Staying in a tent on the beach (well kind of beach) Weather sunny but sea very rough after storm – yet again no snorkelling in sight – maybe 4 days they say.

Now here we discover not only can we not snorkel due to weather (manager showed us some video of just prior to storm, sea was like glass), but we also find out Caves only open on Mondays and this is Friday, we leave Sunday…

Meant to be lots of Manatee as good seagrass area – now mostly on the beach after the storm.

The first night was so cold in the tent we had a cow hide floor mat that we picked up to use as a blanket and were still cold and covered in sand. Found out it was the coldest night in a long time. Manager changed us to a hotel in town for second night for same price. No restaurant so ham rolls again.

One thing we are finding here is that hardly any hotels do food, they mostly do a set breakfast included but no other food, more like B & B’s.

The National Park here is a UNESCO and a RAMSAR site and is very different vegetation, coral, lava and cacti. Unfortunately we could not get all the way to the main beach as too far to walk in the heat. Needed a 4×4 or a calm day to go by boat. It was a lovely scenic walk as far as we did go though.

Off back to capital for the Botanic Gardens (birds) and the Colonial Zone (old buildings – mostly under scaffold and repair).

Next stop Bayahibe for snorkelling in the hope the weather has calmed. It is mostly sunny and hot now, just needs waves to drop.

So much building going on here – all massive high rises, not sure it is our kind of place now and going to be so much worse in a year or two (well worse for our tastes but some will love). We have a bnb in a complex with 4 pools and 4 restaurants – not that we will eat in them as very pricy. We seem to be living on Empanadas, spam sandwiches and other such junk. Good for the waistline, maybe.

Talked to a guy about snorkelling (after trying 3 others who could not understand even with google translate). He said weather no good as wind coming from the North (normally this happens between June – September). Snorkelling only good once it changes direction. Another bomb out, going well on the water activity front – not. Still lots of coaches with day trippers going to Island to sit on beach all day, boats quite full and load music not our scene.

Of to find some different caves with rock art – but really hard to find the art, signs say only really visible when sun on the wall (ie not while we are there).

Following picture not mine but what we should have seen.

Next of to Punta Cana and another park where the most critically endangered raptor in the world resides. Only between 400 – 500 left in the world. Hope we get lucky.

Strange place Punta Cana, after West of country being very local, this side is very touristy – well more than that.  23km of coastline is one resort – and then smaller resorts, golf courses etc within the larger resort. The picture below shows ONE gated community of resorts, so if not staying somewhere in this lot you can not even drive through. The map is not even the entirety of the complex as it also goes the other side of the main road (where we are) which is not shown on this map.

Tree lined dual carriageway’s plus a golf cart lane are the norm, feels like being in some Millionaires Row Everywhere gated, even the cheaper place we are staying further from the beach is a massive gated complex. 

Going to the Eco reserve also needs special permission to get you through the main resort gate which the reserve is inside.

We were lucky with the hawk and some other water birds and it was a great morning.

Off to look at the 2 beaches that are within our complex.  Hard…. So many roads that we can not get through.  Eventually find one of the beaches (soon to be completely closed in by new development). One part is very nice and quiet empty as the blocks behind are still just being built – the rest is packed solid.

Finally a day that would be great for snorkelling, the sea is calm now and the weather great – unfortunately no coral here.  Hopefully better luck when we get to the one area in Puerto Rico worth snorkelling.

The other beach that our complex pass allows us to go to defeats us – can not find a way through all the resorts to correct entry point.  Gave up in the end, shame really to end our time here with a failure but it was a great trip overall.