Sri Lanka

Feels like this trip was a long time coming, not used to being in Adelaide in winter and really glad to escape the rest of it.  We are on our way to the UK (and other places) via a short jaunt in Sri Lanka.  First (and only) time we are doing long haul in Business, using up the last of our frequent flyer points. Only downside is an 8 hour layover in Melbourne.

We decided to go out to a local historic park close to the airport to use up an hour or two. Should have been easy but not so – the first 3 taxis would not take us as too short a fare (they are not allowed to do that but do anyway), the next we just got in and refused to get out when he complained so eventually he took us complaining all the way – it was only a 10 minute journey.  We were a little concerned about finding our way back after this but if worst comes to worst it’s only 1 hour to walk and we have plenty of time.  Sunny but with a cold wind made it hard in the end to spend to long here but it was a lovely park and nice to have a walk.  Luckily  Uber worked easily – of course lots going into airport so not as hard as coming out.  We were not allowed through into departure as still too early and virtually no seating (and none vacant) anywhere in the airport so we just had to wander around for nearly 3 hours – Ugh.  Melbourne is one of the worst airports we have been to for any length of time.  Qantas club was really appreciated by the time we went through and even more so when the flight was delayed an extra hour.

The seats in business class are amazing, love the space and ability to lie down and for a change I actually slept for a few hours which I can never do sitting up in economy  – oh to be rich and afford this on all long haul flights.

As we were arriving at 10 – now 11.30 we had organised a local hotel near the airport, lovely little hotel and a great local breakfast near by 600 lkr for chicken curry and rice, very authentic and tasty.

Setting off for our internal flight to Trincomalee was an adventure, passport needed twice on the way as Cinnamon Air is inside the military airport.  Lovely little planes – they had 2, one a float plane but not ours unfortunately. 

The plane was obviously an old executive jet, with massive leather seats and lots of space, max 8 guests. We had not realised there was to be a stop on the way at Sigiriya either which was an added bonus as on the way in the pilot flew all around the rock and straight past it on the way out – great views and lovely to see from a different angle. 

Our hotel had “supposedly” organised a taxi but it was all a bit odd as the night before they had sent a message saying taxi would be there at 10am.  I replied saying flight did not arrive till 11.25 – I had also given them the flight number.  Response “we always send driver early”. On landing messages saying we gave wrong flight number – I checked, and that was not so, they gave me the driver’s number and said ring direct.  Of course had no phone call allowance so I asked security to ring and gave him the number.  A phone call and a wait and a taxi arrives.  Of we go for a 15 minute drive to Uppuveli, which should have cost around 2000 – at worst 3000 lkr.  On arrival he insisted on 12000 and although we argued he would not budge.  Not happy as that is a lot of money – then just after we paid him the original driver rang me asking which airport we were at…… Obviously the security guy rang a mate.  Not a great start especially when this has not happened any time in our previous visits. Oh well, what can you do, just have to forget about it.

Our stay here was pleasant and reasonable at around 45 AUD per night and only a few metres from the beach – plus a huge room with very small sea glimpses. 4 days of beach, exploring and enjoying being warm all the time. 
Uppuveli is very touristy these days, our last visit 10 years ago saw mainly fishing boats on the beach, now it is mainly dive boats.

A tuk tuk ride to Nilaveli to check out the ability to go to Pigeon Island – looked so calm and inviting we wished we had brought our snorkelling gear to go right then.  After talking to a boat driver we decided to skip Pigeon Island in favour of Angel Rock – no beach or island but better fish and coral. 

Water temperature was 22oC so a bit on the cool side. We only stayed in for about 45 minutes.

Nilaveli is very different to Uppuveli, very spread out, quiet and a lot less tourists, it had a lovely feel to the area.

The next day off we go to Nilaveli again, nice and early to beat the crowds – but we are out of practice and forgot to look up the moon cycle. Being a full moon the weather had changed and the sea quite choppy and stirred up making the visibility awful and the snorkelling hard work.  Pity we did not go yesterday but it was still surprisingly good with a large variety of fish and coral.

Next off to Wilpattu National Park in the hope of seeing a Leopard nearer than we did in 2015 and maybe a Sloth Bear too if we are very lucky.  Our organised guide fell through the night before so the owner of the guest house organised another guide and vehicle, such lovely owners and great guest house. 

Great birds in the garden and one evening an elephant walking down the road.

The owner has the queue down to a tea and manages to get his vehicles right up the front of the queue to get in – a big advantage. We had a very lucky day, with 5 sightings of Leopards but only 4 different ones and 2 sightings of Sloth Bear.  Of course birds, elephant, mongoose etc too but 12 hours is along day on very bumpy roads and we were happily exhausted at the end.

A relaxing day next with just a night safari planned, trying to see Chameleon (rare) and 2 species of nocturnal cats, fishing cat and jungle cat.  First thing we find unexpectedly  is a family of Otter which the guides say they do not see often.  Plenty of deer, elephants and sleeping lizards too, but no Chameleon although we did see one Fishing Cat in the undergrowth and then running off into the bush.  A worthwhile jaunt before we head off tomorrow to Dambulla.

The guest house here is called Lake Edge – what a beautiful setting, lovely people and our best value stay at $30 aus a night, including a massive breakfast. Lovely couple running it and most produce used for meals home grown.

Our first outing here was for a night walk in Popham’s Arboretum a great place protecting the wildlife and plants of the area.  They have a small population of Grey Slow Loris (and on very rare occasions you may see Pangolin) – we were lucky with 2 sightings of Slow Loris but no Pangolins.

The next day we set off early to visit the Dambulla Cave Temple – a UNESCO world heritage site, with around 800 steps of varying height it was a slow climb up, but lovely views along the way.
The temple itself is comprised of 5 cave’s and thought to have it’s origins in the 1st Century and was a major Buddhist hub by the 11th Century.  The caves are full of statues and every surface is painted – quite spectacular.

Walking back to our accommodation we fell across a group of Tawny-bellied Babblers, a bird we had been looking for on our last 2 trips with no luck. Funny how things come up when you least expect them.

Our last base for this trip is Hikkaduwa  – in the off season.  Advantage is the quietness and lack of tourists but the disadvantage is that many hotels and restaurants are closed and the sea is rough.  Still we always enjoy it, very relaxing watching the waves and hearing them crash on the beach. Walking down the road though, the buses are terrifying they go so fast on any side of road and are absolutely lunatics. Iresh our lodger said his mother and him pray when they get on a bus.

Our favourite evening place to eat is open luckily – The Roti stop,  I used to eat here back in the 80’s one of the few remaining original restaurants.

A few days of chilling and reading then a very enjoyable lunch with our Sri Lankan lodger Iresh from Australia and his family who have come down from near Colombo to see us. 

Plain or naked noodles ?

We organised a self drive tuk tuk – to pick up at 9am so that we could go along the coast and visit the snake farm and explore a bit – BUT when Steve went to pick it up they were not open – and still not by 9.30. Typical.  Instead we found a tuk tuk driver who would do the whole day and take us for the same price as hiring one.  Win for Steve not having to drive – maybe not so good for exploring as we tend not to ask to stop in the same way we would on our own.

Watersports with a difference?

We drove past a beautiful old house that has been used for a TV series, it is very traditional of the old Sri Lankan buildings. Good Kahma Hospital. Set in India but actually filmed in Sri Lanka.

The Snake farm (started in 1912) was amazing, they rescue the snakes from people’s houses and land and then take them into the forest to release them – along with working with anti venom’s and producing other products like snake oil.  You never know what they will have when you visit – we thought we were lucky as there were 3 different colour morph Cobra’s, a Russell’s Viper and 3 other non poisonous snakes. We saw 3 Cobras the last one he had rescued the day before, and wow was it angry hissing and rearing up.

On the way back we visited a Turtle hatchery – mainly just to support the work, although we were very surprised to learn about a whole lot of stuff that is new in the field of rescue.  For instance they can now give turtles who have lost limbs to fishing issues false flippers and release them back to the sea.  Fishing issues cause more problems for turtles than plastic, one problem that I had not been aware of is that when a turtle has pain it somehow gets air in its stomach and then floats and can not dive so even if it is escapes the fishing net or boat it will die due to the air.  Luckily these rescue and hatchery places do such a great job of removing plastic and fixing up damaged shells etc that many can be released back to the wild. The turtle below if full of air and can not dive yet but they are treating her.

Our last day Iresh picked us up and took us to his mothers for a traditional curry – she is a great cook and it was an amazing lunch.  In the afternoon Iresh took us to a very old temple which was incredible, the painting’s and carving were really lovely.

For anyone who might be coming to visit Sri Lanka, you get the best value, meet the loveliest people and have the best food staying in homestays rather than tourist area hotels.